Pro Breeze Dehumidifier How to & Troubleshooting Guide

Summer is almost here, and the weather is about to become increasingly warmer. Unfortunately, high humidity is one of the issues you must contend with especially if you live in a hot region. And because of climate changes, you can expect temperatures to be higher than normal.

And if you own a ProBreeze dehumidifier or want to get one, then learning how to use and troubleshoot will be especially handy. So keep reading to learn how to use your dehumidifier efficiently and fix it easily.

Why is my pro breeze dehumidifier not working?

Below are possible reasons for the dehumidifier not working and whether it’s worth repairing.

The tank is full.

Most dehumidifiers come with a shut-off switch that turns the appliance off if the water in the collection tank reaches the top. However, if the dehumidifier has a drain line that runs to a floor drain, a full tank could indicate that the line has become kinked or is clogged.

Manually remove the collection tank, dump it, remove the drain line (it screws on like a hose) and ensure it’s not blocked. If it is and you can’t easily remove the clog, replace the drain line.

The humidity level is set too high.

Most dehumidifiers allow the user to select the desired level of humidity in the room—typically 30 to 40 percent. When the humidity rises above that level, the dehumidifier turns on and removes moisture from the air.

If someone inadvertently turned up the humidity level on the dehumidifier, it might not be coming on because the room’s humidity level is not high enough. Check that the desired humidity level is set no higher than 40 percent, and turn it down if it is.

The humidistat is broken.

The problem could be with the humidistat if the desired humidity level isn’t too high. The humidistat turns the appliance on when moisture in the air reaches the preset level. It’s a small module often located just beneath the dehumidifier’s cover (check the owner’s manual for the exact spot).

If the humidistat no longer works, it can’t turn the dehumidifier on. Those familiar with testing electric currents can use a multi-meter to test the humidistat for continuity (ohms). Or you can ask a professional electrician or technician to test the humidistat. If the component has gone bad, ordering a new one from the manufacturer and replacing it is a relatively simple task.

The room temperature is too cool.

Warm, moist air flows into the appliance, where it comes into contact with ice-cold evaporator coils, causing the air’s moisture to condense and drip down to a collection tank. However, if the room is cooler than 65 degrees, the moisture on the coils can turn to frost rather than condense and drain.

When frost forms on the evaporator coils, it keeps the appliance from working efficiently. Unplug the unit and lift the cover to check for frost. If you see it, leave the dehumidifier unplugged and allow the frost to melt, which can take a few hours, depending on how thick it is. Once the coils are clear, turn the unit back on and turn up the temperature in the room to keep frost from forming again.

The refrigerant fluid is too low.

The evaporator coils on a dehumidifier remain cold because they’re filled with pressurized refrigerant fluid, and a compressor pumps the fluid continuously through the coils. The coil system seals tightly to keep the fluid in, but tiny cracks can form over time, causing the fluid to leak out slowly.

Without sufficient refrigerant fluid, the evaporator coils will not become cold enough to draw moisture from the air. When this happens, unfortunately, it’s not an easy fix. A plumber or HVAC technician can recharge the coils with more refrigerant fluid, but the cracks can be difficult to seal, and the liquid could leak out again. Unless the dehumidifier is a pricey, whole-house unit, it’s usually more cost-effective to buy a new dehumidifier.

The fan stopped working.

The fan in a dehumidifier doesn’t blow air out—instead, it draws air into the appliance, so the moisture in the air comes into contact with the ice-cold coils. The dehumidifying process can’t work effectively if the fan isn’t pulling in the air. The culprit could be a dirty fan or a broken fan blade.

If comfortable checking inside the unit, unplug it and remove the cover, then turn the fan blade by hand to see if debris or a broken blade keeps the fan from turning. Manufacturers carry replacement blades, which users can order and install, usually with the help of just a screwdriver.

However, the fix is more complex if a broken fan motor is at fault. Replacing a fan motor is a job for a professional technician. Purchasing a new unit might be more cost-effective depending on the existing dehumidifier’s value.

Blockied airflow.

If the fan is in good shape, something could be blocking airflow into the unit. This could be as simple as lint, dust, or pet fur build-up on the grill that covers the fan. A dehumidifier placed against a wall or next to an upholstered chair might not draw in enough air. Position the dehumidifier at least a foot away from walls, furniture, curtains, clothing, and other items.

If a dirty or clogged grill reduces airflow, unplug the unit, remove the grill cover, take it outdoors, and spray it clean with a hose. While you’re at it, if you see lint and debris in the interior of the dehumidifier case, consider taking the entire unit outdoors and cleaning away the mess with compressed air, either from a can or from the nozzle end of an air compressor hose.

Electrical parts or connections have gone bad.

Dehumidifiers contain electrical components that can go bad and internal wiring that can short or come loose from connection terminals. In addition, models made within the past decade might contain electronic control boards that can burn out and stop working.

Only someone familiar with electronic circuitry should test a dehumidifier’s wiring and electrical components. Some tests require that the dehumidifier remain plugged in during the test, so the best option is to take the dehumidifier to a small appliance repair shop or have a technician come out and take a look.

The dehumidifier’s compressor is overloaded.

The dehumidifier’s compressor is the unit’s core and circulates refrigerant liquid through the coils. If the compressor struggles to operate or heavy frost develops on the coils, the compressor can become overheated.

Most dehumidifiers have an overload switch that will shut an overheated compressor down to prevent damage. However, the overload switch might have flipped if the dehumidifier didn’t sound when turned on. If the compressor overheated due to frost build-up, you can try resetting the overload switch (check the owner’s manual for location) once the frost has melted.

Unfortunately, other problems can cause an overload switch to flip, some of which are related to short-circuiting of the appliance’s wiring. If this is the case, the overload switch will continue to flip even after resetting, and a technician will likely be required to pinpoint the cause. As a result, some users might opt to purchase a new unit at this point.

Why is my Dehumidifier not starting?

Here are some reasons why your dehumidifier is not turning on and possible fixes;

Faulty Float Assembly

If your dehumidifier doesn’t work, the compressor won’t start, and the float assembly and switch are not signaling. This dehumidifier part contacts the float switch when the bucket is full of water to prevent the unit from overflowing.

To troubleshoot your dehumidifier, ensure the float assembly is not blocked, so it can move around freely and come in contact with the float switch when it should. If the part appears to be damaged, you should replace it.

Faulty Humidistat

If your dehumidifier doesn’t work, there may be an issue with the humidistat, also known as the humidity control. This dehumidifier part supplies power to the compressor via electrical contacts when the humidity level in the air warrants it. Unfortunately, sometimes the electrical contacts can become welded shut or corrupted and cannot signal the compressor to turn on.

To perform this dehumidifier repair, turn the dial on the humidistat and listen for the click sound that indicates it is working. You can also test the contacts for continuity using a multi-meter. Replace the humidistat if you find it to be faulty.

Faulty Sensor

If your dehumidifier doesn’t work, it may be due to a faulty humidity sensor. This dehumidifier part is used on electronic control models and signals the control board when it senses the relative humidity in the air. Then, the control board signals the compressor to turn on.

The compressor won’t cycle on if the sensor is not working because of an inaccurate humidity reading. To troubleshoot this part, inspect the harness connections to the control board to ensure they are in working order. If they appear to be damaged, replace the sensor.

Damaged Electronic Control Board or PCB

If your dehumidifier won’t work, and it is an electronic control type, the issue may be the control board or PCB. The control board supplies the compressor and fan motor circuits with power, and the dehumidifier will not work if this part is faulty.

To troubleshoot this issue, use the elimination process to ensure none of the other dehumidifier parts are causing this issue. In addition, the control board will likely need to be replaced if everything works normally.

Faulty Auto Shut Off or Bucket Level Switch

Your dehumidifier may not be working because there is an issue with the auto shut-off switch, also sometimes known as the bucket level switch. This switch is in place to keep the dehumidifier from overflowing when the bucket fills up with water.

The float assembly signals the switch when the water level rises to a certain point, which results in the compressor and fans motor circuits shutting off. So if your dehumidifier is not working, but the full bucket switch is not on, the issue is likely with the shut-off switch.

Ensure the bucket is not full of water and that the float assembly can come in contact with the switch properly. If everything appears normal, test the switch for continuity with a multi-meter.

How to clean a pro breeze dehumidifier

A dehumidifier continuously accumulates dust on the surface. The appliance also has a filter that traps the contaminating agents from the air to emit clean and dry air into the room.

Over time, the debris saturates the filter. If not cleaned regularly, the debris does not only render the filter inefficient but can also damage other mechanical components of the dehumidifier. Therefore, it is crucial to ensure the dehumidifier is cleaned thoroughly.

Following are the general steps to cleaning the ProBreeze dehumidifiers:

Dehumidifiers contain several important components — such as an air filter and a reservoir — that won’t function right if dirty. So here’s how to clean a dehumidifier:

Before cleaning your dehumidifier, turn it off and unplug it from the outlet. This ensures that the unit is completely safe to touch.

Dehumidifiers draw air in through vents, and as a result, there can be a significant amount of dust and dirt. The outer shell is also what catches bigger particles that try to enter the dehumidifier.

To clean the exterior, use a dry cloth to wipe off dirt and grime clinging to the outside. If the dry cloth isn’t helping, dampen it slightly. You might also need to use some good old elbow grease.

Note: Never spray water or solvents directly onto the exterior. This could damage the internal and electrical parts of the dehumidifier.

How to clean the inside of a pro breeze

Follow these steps to clean your dehumidifier’s interior;

Clean the Filter

The air filter plays an important role in protecting the dehumidifier’s internal parts and cleaning your dry air. However, if the air filter is filthy and covered in grime, the dehumidifier won’t work as the air can’t pass.

All ProBreeze dehumidifiers come with a HEPA filter. The manufacturer recommends cleaning the filter every two weeks. Refer to the user manual if unsure where the filter is located. Some units have it at the back, so you can slide it out after removing the tank.

After taking the filter out, inspect it, and consider if it needs replacing. For example, dehumidifiers generally use washable or reusable filters, but even these need to be replaced.

Note: Most dehumidifiers come with a guide on properly cleaning the air filter. Some require warm water and mild detergent, while others only need to be vacuumed. Refer to the manual to ensure you’re not damaging the filter.

Cleaning steps;

  • Locate the filter from the front side of the dehumidifier, behind the air outlet.
  • Take the tank out carefully, and pull the filter tab to access the filter.
  • Detach the filter and inspect it.
  • If it’s still usable, start by giving it a quick clean with a vacuum to remove any loose dirt or dust.
  • Then, make a cleaning solution of warm water and a mild detergent in a large container.
  • Place the air filter in the solution and allow it to soak for up to 10 minutes. Then, dry it off completely before putting it back into the dehumidifier.
  • For hardened debris, take a damp cloth and gently wipe the filter.
  • Return the filter and pull up the tab.
  • Reassemble the appliance and switch it on.

Clean the bucket filter

The bucket filter is what catches any impurities that make it into the dehumidifier. Unfortunately, not all dehumidifiers have this small filter. However, if yours does, it’s important to clean it to avoid clogs.

Simply remove it and rinse with warm water. Then allow it to dry and then put it back into place.

Clean the Tank

The dehumidifier tank or reservoir is where all the extracted water is collected. Emptying this whenever it’s full is essential, but it’s also important to clean it every so often. Consequently, mold can begin to grow within the tank if you don’t clean it properly.

If mold or mildew begins to form within the tank, it could spread into the air and through your home. Mold can trigger allergies and asthma in sensitive individuals (1).

Check this too: Hevillo Dehumidifier How to & Troubleshooting Guide

To clean and sanitize the reservoir, you must first empty it. Then, fill it a quarter with clean, warm water and one or two squirts of dish soap. Finally, use a sponge to scrub it — make sure you get into the corners.

  • Remove the water tank from the front side of the appliance.
  • Drain it and then partially fill it in with cold water.
  • Leave it to rest for a few minutes, then swish the water in the tank.
  • Empty the tank and use a cloth to clean any deposits.
  • Strictly avoid using bleach or detergents as chemicals from cleaning agents can damage the tank.

After scrubbing, empty the contents and spray the entire tank with pure vinegar — it will smell strong until it dries. Allow the vinegar to sit for up to 10 minutes, then wipe with a damp cloth and leave the tank to dry. Once it’s fully dry, put it back into the dehumidifier.

If your dehumidifier is draining through a hose to a nearby drain, the hose could be housing some mold. Therefore, you should remove the hose and flush it using white vinegar.

Standing water can lead to the build-up of bacteria and mold in the tank, consequently causing damage. To prevent this, religiously clean the tank every few weeks. When not using the dehumidifier, do not leave water in the tank.

Note: White vinegar is an excellent natural disinfectant. Although many use bleach to kill mold, we prefer to use vinegar unless mold is actively growing in the tank (2).

Defrosting

Various factors may cause frost in the dehumidifier. It impairs the functioning of the appliance and can cause serious damage to the unit if not cleaned promptly.

Some ProBreeze dehumidifiers (12L, 20L, etc.) come with a built-in defrost mode that allows the ice to melt before the appliance resumes normal working. The screen on a ProBreeze dehumidifier displays “P1” when the unit enters defrost mode.

The defrost mode activates automatically and runs for approximately 10 minutes. After that, the dehumidifier stops collecting water, but the fan will continue working at the set speed.

The 10L desiccant dehumidifier comes with a defrost light instead of the “P1” on display feature. Frost usually occurs in low temperatures, i.e., below 16° C. To ensure efficient and complete defrosting, do not turn the system off during the process.

How to empty a pro breeze dehumidifier

Dehumidifiers extract moisture from the air, which is collected in a tank. To prevent the water from overflowing, you need to empty the tank as soon as it fills (unless it has a water hose feature).

Certain signals indicate a full water tank.

  • The LED turns yellow in small dehumidifiers, like the ProBreeze Mini 500 ml Dehumidifier. To indicate you need to drain the water. The unit automatically turns off to prevent spills.
  • The dehumidifier can collect up to 500ml (18oz) of water per day, and the tank has a maximum capacity of 1500ml (52oz).

When full, turn OFF the dehumidifier and pull the water tank out.

Place the water tank on a stable surface, remove the tank cover using a thumb hole, and follow the instructions below.

Then, gently tilt the tank over a sink to empty.

In the ProBreeze 20L compressor dehumidifier, the yellow light will be accompanied by ten beeps before the unit shuts down due to a full water tank. However, in all other ProBreeze dehumidifiers, the yellow light is the only sign of a full tank.

The ProBreeze 1000 ml Dehumidifier’s LED turns red to indicate a full water tank. The frequency of draining the tank depends on the capacity, but you need to empty it once or twice daily.

Connecting the Hose

Models like the ProBreeze 20L and 12L compressor dehumidifier save you from the hassle of emptying the tank thanks to the water hose feature.

The hose connects to the tank and drains the water continuously so that the appliance does not stop operating due to a full tank.

For long-term use, we recommend connecting the water hose. Here’s how to do it:

  • Turn the appliance off.
  • Locate the water hose connector at the rear of the dehumidifier, and remove the plug.
  • Insert one end of the hose into the connector and leave the other end to any draining outlet.
  • Ensure the hose is perfectly in place, so the water does not spill outside.

How to use a pro breeze dehumidifier

In this section, we will take you through the working of ProBreeze dehumidifiers in various steps. The functionalities specific to certain models will be highlighted in each section.

Below are basic operational steps for using your ProBreeze dehumidifier;

Turning On/Off or Ignition

ProBreeze dehumidifiers come with a power adapter that connects the appliance to a power outlet. First, attach the adapter to the dehumidifier and plug it into the socket to turn it on. Next, locate the power button/switch on the control panel and press it once to turn the unit.

Two signs immediately confirm if the dehumidifier has turned on and started working:

  • The LED illuminates solid green.
  • The dry air outlet starts blowing out air
  • To switch the unit off, press the power button/switch again.

ProBreeze dehumidifier settings

Setting The Timer

You can set the timer on a ProBreeze dehumidifier to ensure it operates for a specific period. You will find a “TIMER” button on the control panel, which you must press to set both the turn-off and turn-on timer.

Turn-Off Timer

Turn the dehumidifier on and press the timer button to activate the function.

The turn-off timer allows you to select any one of the options, i.e., 2, 4, 8, or 12 hours (in the 12L compressor dehumidifier, you can select any time between 1 to 24 hours).

In some models (like the 12L compressor dehumidifier), the timer digits will blink five times on the display panel, ensuring it is set. Whereas the ‘Hr’ light will illuminate in the 20L compressor dehumidifier.

The dehumidifier will shut down after the set hours. When the time is low (the manual does not say the exact time), the countdown will display on the screen until it reaches 0 hours.

Press the Timer button once to check the remaining time until the time-off.

Turn-On Timer

Switch the dehumidifier on and press the timer button.

Set the other controls like fan speed, humidity set-point, operating mode, etc.

Tap the timer button until it displays your desired number of hours (between 1 and 24).

Each model shows the same signs when the turn-on timer is set as it does with the turn-off timer.

Setting The Child Lock

The 10L desiccant dehumidifier and 12L compressor dehumidifier come with a child lock. The lock does not allow a change in settings and prevents the unit from being turned off. This is an important safety feature that keeps both the children and the appliance safe.

The child lock button is located at the extreme left on the first row of the control panel.

To lock the device, press and hold the button for 3 seconds after turning the unit on and setting the controls. Then, repeat the process to unlock the appliance.

Setting The Relative Humidity

Relative humidity (RH) is a scale that measures the moisture content of the room.

A dehumidifier allows you to set the desired humidity level.

Once the room reaches the set point of humidity, the unit stops collecting further water for some time. This periodic shutting on/off of the system helps maintain the moisture content comfortably.

Locate the humidity button on the control panel and select your desired RH. The ideal recommended RH is between 30 – 50%. The max RH value of ProBreeze dehumidifiers is 80%.

In the 10L desiccant dehumidifier, there is a “%” light that flashes while you are setting the humidity. The humidity levels are set in 5% increments i.e 40%, 45%, 50% and so on. The light next to the set level lights will illuminate upon selection.

If the humidity in the room is lower than the set-point, the Humidity Indicator Light begins flashing. Then, the dehumidifier stops working and enters the standby mode to save energy.

To prevent the unit from overheating, the fan rotates for two minutes in standby mode. This way, it lets in some amount of air that helps cool the system down.

The dehumidifier stays in standby mode for 30 minutes, after which the fan turns on again. The humidity sensor then calculates the humidity of the incoming air.

The humidity must be at least 5% higher than the set-point for the dehumidifier to restart.

If the humidity levels remain low, the dehumidifier returns to standby mode.

Setting The Fan Speed

The fan speed determines how quickly the set humidity point is reached. When the fan rotates fast, the inflow of air increases. Eventually, the unit collects more water in less time, lowering the humidity levels.

All ProBreeze dehumidifiers allow you to select the fan speed. Following are the three options you can choose from:

  • Auto: When set at the auto mode, the fan automatically switches between high and low, adjusting to the humidity levels in the room. For example, the fan will run at high speed if the room’s humidity is extremely high compared to the set value.
  • High: The fan runs at high speed, and the heater runs at a low setting.
  • Low: Low fan speed and low heater setting.

Setting The Angle for The Air Outlet

You need to set an angle for the air outlet to allow the unit to disperse the dehumidified air into the room. When no angle is set, the outlet remains closed.

Locate the ‘Swing’ button on the control panel and press it. Then select between the following three modes:

  • Up: 50° to 150° swing
  • Front: 0° to 50° swing
  • Wide: 0° to 150° swing

Selecting The Operating Mode

The ProBreeze dehumidifiers work on one of the following modes:

  • Normal: This allows you to set both the fan’s speed and humidity set point
  • Low: The fan’s speed is automatically set to low, and the dehumidifier operates continuously and does not stick to a particular set point.
  • High: The fan’s speed is automatically set to high, the target humidity is disabled, and the unit runs continuously.
  • Laundry: In this mode, target humidity is disabled, and the dehumidifier runs continuously.

How to reset ProBreeze dehumidifiers

ProBreeze dehumidifiers do not come with a reset button. To hard reset the unit, disconnect it from the power outlet for 30 seconds before reconnecting it. All control settings will be cleared. Next, turn the dehumidifier on and set all the controls. Finally, press and hold the ‘sleep’ button down for 5 seconds to reset the timer.

Safety Warnings

Use the dehumidifier only as described in this manual. Any other use not recommended by the manufacturer may cause fire, electric shock, or injury.

  • To avoid the risk of electrical shock, fire, or injury to people, always turn the appliance OFF, unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet and empty the water tank before handling, cleaning, or servicing the appliance.
  • The appliance is not to be used by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge unless they have been given supervision or instruction.
  • Children must be supervised not to play with the appliance.
  • Children of less than three years should be kept away unless continuously supervised.
  • Do not leave children alone or unattended in the area where the appliance is in use.
  • The appliance must have a minimum 50cm clearance around all sides.
  • Do not cover or obstruct in any way the air inlets and outlets of the appliance. Do not cover the appliance while in use.
  • Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children unless continuously supervised.
  • Dispose of water collected from the dehumidifier. This water is not drinkable. Always place the appliance upright on a flat, stable surface.
  • Operating the product in any other position could cause a hazard and leakages.
  • Do not use this appliance near water or in the immediate surroundings of a bath, a shower, or a swimming pool.
  • Do not allow water or other liquids to run into the appliance, as this could create a fire and electrical hazard.
  • This appliance is intended for indoor household use and similar applications. Do not use outdoors.
  • Never leave the unattended appliance while in use. Always turn the appliance off and unplug it when not in use.
  • Do not use abrasive cleaners or solvents, as this will damage the appliance.
  • To disconnect the appliance from the mains power, turn the controls to the OFF position and remove the plug from the socket.
  • Never insert fingers or metal objects into the vents and openings of the appliance.
  • Do not push any objects in the air inlet and outlet grills as this may cause an electric shock, fire, or damage to the appliance.
  • Avoid placing the power cord in areas where it can become a tripping hazard. For example, please do not place the power cord under carpeting or cover it with rugs, runners, or similar. In addition, to avoid a circuit overload when using this appliance, do not operate another high-wattage appliance on the same electrical circuit.
  • Always plug the appliance directly into a wall socket. Avoid using extension leads where possible as they may overheat and cause a fire risk.
  • Do not use this appliance with an external programmer, timer switch, or any other device which would switch the device on automatically unless this has already been pre-built into the appliance by the manufacturer.
  • Do not kink or wrap the power cord and plug around the appliance, as this may cause the insulation to weaken or split, particularly where it enters the appliance. Likewise, do not pull on the main cable. Never move, carry or hang the appliance by the mains cable.
  • Do not remove the water tank when the appliance is in use. This may cause water to leak.
  • Do not operate the appliance with the water tank removed.
  • Do not operate the appliance if there are signs of damage to the appliance, power cord, or any accessories.
  • Do not place objects on top of the appliance.
  • The appliance should only be used with the adapter supplied.
  • If the supply cord is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer, its service agent, or a similarly qualified person to avoid a hazard.
  • Do not attempt to repair or adjust any electrical or mechanical elements in the appliance. Doing so may be unsafe and will void your warranty.
  • Ensure that the mains supply (voltage, frequency, and power) complies with the appliance’s rating label.

Pro breeze dehumidifier not collecting water

If your dehumidifier is not collecting water, it could be a result of the reasons below;

Low Temperatures (Compressor/Refrigerant)

Refrigerant dehumidifiers need a temperature difference between the air and coils. When warmer air hits the cooler coils, moisture condenses and falls into the tank. As the external temperature drops, the coils must become cooler to maintain a temperature difference.

The result is that refrigerant dehumidifiers become less effective as the temperature drops. So if your machine is still working but doesn’t remove as much moisture as it once did, a lower temperature could be the problem.

At a certain temperature, the coils may also start to freeze. Modern dehumidifiers have an automatic de-freeze function, but the machine can’t extract water when this process is running.

Large Extraction Capacities

Dehumidifiers with high maximum extraction rates are designed to dehumidify entire homes. However, using them in a small room will likely bring the humidity down quickly, which means they won’t extract much water.

This isn’t a problem – there’s no need to run the dehumidifier if the relative humidity has reached your target levels. But it can make it seem like the dehumidifier isn’t working when it’s just done its job quicker than you thought.

All dehumidifiers will also remove more moisture during the first week of operation. Once humidity levels have been reduced to a manageable level, there is less water to remove.

Unrealistic Expectations

Dehumidifiers are listed with a maximum extraction capacity. This is the theoretical amount of water the machine could remove in ideal conditions. The key words here are “ideal conditions.” For refrigerant dehumidifiers, these conditions are 30 degrees Celsius and high humidity levels (~80%).

You’ll be disappointed if you expect a dehumidifier with a 20 liters per day capacity to extract anywhere close to this amount.

Potential fixes;

The machine may have a faulty component if you’ve ruled out external reasons for your dehumidifier to stop working.

Note: You should always contact the manufacturer if you think your dehumidifier has developed a fault. Even if your machine isn’t under warranty, the manufacturer’s support team is the best source for how to repair your make and model.

With that said, here are some of the most common dehumidifier faults.

Blocked Filter or Restricted Fan

Dehumidifiers blow air over internal coils to remove air and prevent ice build-up. The dehumidifier will struggle to extract moisture if there isn’t enough airflow through the machine.

This is a relatively easy problem to identify. First, put your hand near the grill and check how much warm air is blowing out of the dehumidifier. If the airflow is weak, this can cause the dehumidifier to struggle.

Start by checking the filter for potential blockages. If the filter is clogged with dirt or fluff, remove it so air can flow freely. Filters should be cleaned regularly, so the dehumidifier doesn’t become less efficient over time.

Next, check the fan hasn’t become caught or blocked. It should be able to spin without restriction to maintain the correct airflow.

If you’re not a trained electrician, don’t test the fan with the plugged machine. Instead, contact a professional who is comfortable working with a live dehumidifier.

Blocked Drainage Hose

Nearly all dehumidifiers have a continuous drainage option. This allows water to run away via an external pipe into a drain or sink rather than filling up the machine’s water tank.

While continuous drainage can be useful, it relies on gravity for water removal from the machine. If there is a kink or other blockage in the hose, the water won’t flow, and the dehumidifier will stop working.

Leaking Refrigerant Fluid

Refrigerant fluid is essential for a dehumidifier to extract water from the air. While the refrigerant should be in a closed system, so it doesn’t run out, the reality is that small leaks can sometimes develop.

You should be able to spot a leak by checking inside the dehumidifier (make sure the power is off). If you can see the refrigerant has been leaking, or there appears to be other damage within the machine, contact a service professional.

This won’t be an issue if you have a desiccant dehumidifier.

Broken Compressor

Refrigerant dehumidifiers rely on a compressor to extract water from the air. The compressor pumps refrigerant through the machine and into the evaporator, where it’s used to extract water. If this vital part develops a fault, the machine won’t be able to collect moisture.

The most common sign of a faulty compressor is intermittent buzzing. This is often caused by a problem with the capacitor in the compressor but can also be the result of a failed overload device. Unfortunately, you’ll either need to replace the machine or contact a professional for repair.

Capacitor

Suppose your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air, and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. In that case, the unit’s compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air.

There is a capacitor in the compressor circuit to help the compressor motor start; if the capacitor has failed, the compressor won’t run. If the compressor doesn’t run or the overload device continues to trip, you may have a defective capacitor. A qualified person can determine an accurate diagnosis using special test equipment.

Overload

Suppose your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air, and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. In that case, the unit’s compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air.

There is a device in the compressor circuit called an overload, and it is used to protect the compressor motor from damage. If the overload has failed, then the compressor won’t start. If you have verified that the compressor doesn’t run, you can test the overload for continuity with a multi-meter. A common cause of the overload failing is operating the dehumidifier on long or undersized extension cords.

Fan Motor

If your dehumidifier is not making water and you have verified that the ambient temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, you may have a faulty fan motor. For proper operation, a dehumidifier must have adequate air blowing across the evaporator coils to prevent frost or ice build-up.

If you feel little or no air coming through the grille area and the filter is clean, remove the cover and check the fan area. Inspect the coils to ensure they are not restricted with lint or dirt and clean them if necessary. Ensure that the fan motor rotates freely and that the fan blade or blower wheel is firmly attached to the motor shaft.

Using caution, operate the unit in a fan-only mode and observe the fan motor. If it hums but does not rotate or only rotates slowly, it is defective and needs to be replaced. On the other hand, if the motor does not rotate and does not appear to make any sound, it may still be defective. Still, it will require further testing by someone comfortable using a multi-meter and working with live electrical circuits.

Electronic Control Board or PCB Assembly

Suppose your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air, and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. In that case, the unit’s compressor or fan motor may not operate. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator, and the fan motor blows air across the evaporator coils to extract the moisture.

On some modern dehumidifiers, an electronic control board, often called the PCB, controls the compressor and fan motor. The control board has sensors that monitor relative humidity. When the level is higher than the control setting, the control board will activate relays to turn on the compressor and fan motor.

If you have an electronic control model and the compressor or the fan is not operating, the electronic control may be at fault. A multi-meter voltage test at the output relays would be required to help diagnose and confirm that the sensors operate normally.

What Does the Red Light on My ProBreeze Dehumidifier Mean?

The red light on the 1000 ml ProBreeze dehumidifier indicates a full water tank. When the tank reaches its capacity, the unit will turn off. The LED illuminates yellow instead of red in other models.

If you own a 1000ml Compressor ProBreeze Dehumidifier, you may notice it illuminating red just before the unit shuts down.

The dehumidifier extracts moisture from the air and collects it in the tank. When the tank reaches its capacity, i.e., 1000 ml, the unit shuts off to prevent the water from spilling. The red LED light indicates that you must drain the tank’s water.

What Does the Flashing Green Light On My ProBreeze Dehumidifier Mean?

A ProBreeze dehumidifier displays a flashing green light when it is not properly connected to the power outlet. According to ProBreeze, the LED blinks green when there is a fault in the power adapter.

You need to plug the dehumidifier into a power outlet for it to work. ProBreeze dehumidifiers come with a power adapter that connects them to the socket. The LED displays a solid green light when the unit is plugged in.

If the adapter is faulty, the unit won’t properly connect with the electrical outlet, and the dehumidifier won’t start working. And in this case, the LED will flash a green light. Contact the manufacturer if you have just bought a new ProBreeze dehumidifier and ask for a replacement.

Why Does My ProBreeze Dehumidifier Plug Get Hot?

The plug connecting the ProBreeze dehumidifier to the power outlet can get hot due to internal electrical issues. When the unit is under stress, it overworks and draws more power, leading to excess heating. This overheating in the unit can also cause the plug to get hot.

If your ProBreeze dehumidifier plug gets hot, turn the unit off and call a technician to diagnose and fix the problem.

Why has my dehumidifier frozen?

It’s normal for your dehumidifier to freeze up, so some models have an auto-defrost function. If yours does not, defrost it manually, following the steps in your instruction manual. If you continue to experience issues, please get in touch with the Probreeze Customer Care Team.

Why does my Dehumidifier Keeps Shutting Off?

Here are some reasons your dehumidifier keeps shutting Off or turning On and Off during the operation:

1. Temperature Too Low for Dehumidification

Most of the dehumidifiers available in the market operate on a vapor compression cycle. This means they use refrigerant for dehumidification, just like air conditioners.

An airflow is established through the dehumidifier by using a fan. Air comes in contact with the cool evaporator coils of the dehumidifier. These coils are at a temperature lower than the due point of the air. Due to the temperature below, water condenses from the air, and dehumidification is carried out.

The lower the room temperature, the lower the dew point temperature, and the lower the temperature required by evaporator coils in your dehumidifier to extract humidity from the air.

However, when the ambient air temperature is very low, it results in the icing of the coils. Therefore, it is also referred to as the frosting up of the dehumidifier. The ice build-up will cause inhibition of airflow through cooling coils. As a result, the airflow rate will be reduced, leading to a reduction in dehumidification.

Ice in Air Gaps

For dehumidifier operation, the ideal room temperature is between 70°F and 90°F (21°C to 32°C). Refrigerant dehumidifiers should not be used below 60°F (about 15°C). You should never use a refrigerant dehumidifier below 41°F (5°C)

If you operate it sufficiently below the prescribed temperature, your evaporator coils will slowly develop ice. This will deteriorate the dehumidification process and eventually stop it.

Some modern dehumidifiers have auto-defrosting or anti-icing features. This allows them to turn off the compressor automatically and keep the fan running until ice melts.

Solutions

There are two solutions when the temperature is unsuitably low for a refrigerant dehumidifier to work;

The first option is to increase the room’s temperature to be greater than the prescribed limit, i.e., 60-degree Fahrenheit. This will prevent frosting of the dehumidifier and keep your room at a comfortable temperature.

The second option is to use a different kind of dehumidifier. For example, use a desiccant humidifier or an LGR (Low Grain Refrigerant) dehumidifier. Desiccant dehumidifiers are not dependent on room temperature, so you will eliminate that problem.

Heating the room is suitable if you live in the room. Use a desiccant dehumidifier in other locations of your home, like crawl space, connecting room, basement, etc.

2. Dirty Blocked Filter

An air filter cleans the air that passes through the dehumidifier. Some dehumidifiers have two filters, one at the intake and the other at delivery/exhaust.

When the filters are unclean and mucky, airflow through them is restricted. As a result, the compressor has to work harder to sustain the airflow. This causes more energy consumption and heat generation.

This may also cause your compressor to heat more than it should.

However, a more probable event due to a clogged filter is the frosting of the evaporator coils. The reason is the low flow rate of air.

When the flow rate becomes inadequate, the quantity of air coming in contact with cooling coils will be reduced. As a result, the temperature of the coils will go very low to cause ice build-up.

The dehumidification will be reduced, and the dehumidifier compressor will shut off, going into defrosting mode, to melt the ice.

If your dehumidifier keeps going in defrosting mode and you have not given a check to your filters for a while, then it is highly probable that an unclean filter is the problem.

Solutions

Clean your filters in routine. Some recommend it every week, the others every three weeks, and some after certain hours have passed.

However, if you keep doing it every week or so, you will get an idea of when to clean your filters, depending upon the operation of your dehumidifier.

Some dehumidifiers also have a filter reset indicator light. It turns on after a specific number of hours of operation have passed. The manufacturer sets this duration.

The filters in dehumidifiers are almost always reusable, so you will not have to change them. Use lukewarm water to wash the air filter gently. Allow it to dry properly before inserting it back.

3. Inadequate Fan or Blower Speed

The fan is the component of the dehumidifier that pushes air through it. The term ‘blower’ is also used interchangeably with fan, depending on the design. However, both perform the same function, i.e., generating forced airflow.

When air comes in contact with cool evaporator coils, heat is taken up by the coils, the air temperature is reduced below the dew point, and humidity is extracted from it.

The flow rate of air through the dehumidifier needs to be adequate.

With less airflow rate, insufficient air comes in contact will cooling coils. As a result, less cooling will be used up from evaporator coils. This will cause their temperature to reduce to drastically low levels, causing ice build-up in the coils.

Frosting will cause the dehumidifier to defrost or anti-ice mode until the ice melts. This will take more time than usual due to lower fan speed.

When ice melts, the dehumidifier compressor will start again. However, due to less airflow, ice will develop repeatedly. These short cycles will cause more energy consumption, less incomplete dehumidifier operation, and reduced life.

Causes and Solutions of Slow or Non-Operational Dehumidifier Fan

Fan/Blower

There are three common causes of a slow fan/blower speed or one that is not working:

  1. Blower Motor Is Faulty

A damaged blower motor is one of the causes of a slow blower, especially if it does not start.

Motor needs to be checked for shortages and continuation. In case the motor is the culprit, you have two solutions. Either get it repaired or get a new one.

If you discover a complicated internal fault, replace it. It will save you a lot of trouble. Before getting a new blower motor, remember to check the specifications and description properly. It should be the same as the one that the manufacturer primarily fitted.

2. Fan/Blower Blades are Damaged

Another reason why required airflow could not be established may be damaged blower blades.

The motor and blower are running at the required RPM in this case. However, not enough air is being pulled by the blades. Therefore, if you see a broken fragment or any other damage to blower blades, you will have to get it replaced.

Contact product support to get the recommended certified parts.

Faulty Electronic Components Associated with Running of Fan

There are so many factors involved in running your dehumidifier fan. For example, controlling fan speed, variable switching, operating it with/without compressor, etc. One of the reasons why your fan is running at a slow speed or not running at all could be electronic components like a switch, capacitor, relay, etc.

Tracking the faulty component is not that complicated. First, check the current in the entire circuit of the control board. When you find discontinuation of electric current after a certain component, it is very likely it is the one at fault and needs replacement.

Only do it if you have experience in this field. The best is to get it checked by a certified technician.

4. Lack of Refrigerant Due to Leakage

If your dehumidifier keeps turning OFF and ON, then one of the problems could be a low amount of refrigerant.

Firstly, you should know that this is not supposed to happen in refrigerant dehumidifiers. They are supposed to keep the same amount of refrigerant in them for life.

The refrigerant during the dehumidifier operation shifts between liquid and gaseous states but never reduces in quantity.

So low quantity of refrigerant in a dehumidifier is almost always due to refrigerant leakage. Poor construction or impact directly to lines could cause leakage in your dehumidifier.

Leakage of refrigerant causes a reduction in pressure in refrigerant lines. Pressure is reduced to the extent that the compressor turns off before completing the cooling cycle.

After some time, when the pressure in lines increases, the compressor kicks back ON. This working in short incomplete cycles causes high energy usage and may damage your dehumidifier components.

Another indication of leakage is icing on evaporator coils despite adequate room temperature and airflow.

Solutions

If your dehumidifier is running in short cycles, as stated above, diagnose refrigerant leaks. It may or may not be difficult to detect leaks. For example, if your dehumidifier got a hit someplace or you notice an unusual bend, there is likely a leak in the same area.

However, this is something that requires experience. Call a certified HVAC technician to do this for you. A technician will detect the leak, patch it and recharge it for you. It will save you a lot of time and trouble.

Note: Firstly, check your dehumidifier for other reasons that may have caused it to shut off. Rule out the convenient causes, then consider getting your dehumidifier checked for refrigerant loss.

5. Clogged Dehumidifier Coils

Air moving through your dehumidifier comes in contact with evaporator coils. As a result, its temperature drops below the due point, and humidity is extracted and collected in the drain pan.

For proper and consistent dehumidification, air must come in contact with the evaporator coils at a sufficient flow rate. The air passage will be blocked partially if you have a clogged evaporator and condenser coils. Consequently, the airflow rate will drop to the extent of causing frosting.

Dust and dirt keep accumulating in coils with time, and their cleaning is required from time to time.

Dirty coils will deteriorate the quality of air that moves through your dehumidifier. This can harm your health. They will also cause the unit to work harder, resulting in increased electricity bills and less life for your dehumidifier.

Solutions

Clean your dehumidifier coils by using a soft brush. Clean them in the direction of the tubes. The reason is that these coils are very sensitive and delicate. If their geometry is affected, this will cause to reduce the efficiency of your dehumidifier, or worse may cause a leak, and coils will need a replacement.

Accessibility of dehumidifier coils depends upon the manufacturer and model of your unit. Some give easy access to them, while others don’t. If they are not easily accessible and you don’t have enough experience, you can vacuum through the holes above the coils.

The best way to expose the dehumidifier coils is to clean debris and dirt carefully, with a suitable brush, in gentle upward and downward motion. Then you could either use a solution like warm water and detergent or dishwasher liquid to clean your dehumidifier coils.

However, a really simple product caught my eye the other day. It is specifically built for cleaning coils and can easily liquefy dirt, oil, and grease. It consists of corrosion inhibitors (saves from corrosion, unlike water) and has a pleasant smell after application. Look at its specification by clicking here.

6. Malfunctioning Dehumidifier Humidistat

Humidistat or humidity control is one of the core components of the dehumidifier. It decides when your dehumidifier needs to start and when it should stop.

Humidistat continuously detects percentage humidity in the vicinity of the dehumidifier. When humidity reaches the selected value, it signals the compressor to turn off. However, when humidity increases sufficiently, it restarts the cooling cycle again by switching ON the compressor.

The electronic humidity sensor is at the inlet of your dehumidifier, and it is exposed to an adequate flow rate of air. This allows the most reliable, accurate, and instantaneous measurement of overall humidity in the room.

Thermometer Hygrometer

If your dehumidifier humidistat is faulty, it will measure inaccurate relative humidity levels. This will cause your humidity control to shut off the compressor before the desired humidity value is achieved. As a result, you will have incomplete dehumidification.

Note: you will have to select a lower humidity value than required; to achieve the required dehumidification.

Other Reasons for Inaccurate Humidistat Measurement

If humidistat is measuring incorrect humidity, it is not necessarily faulty. There are a couple of other reasons that could be causing this:

The humidity sensor is in contact with wet coils.

The reduced flow rate of air, possibly due to blockage, is causing the wrong measurement of humidity. The top reasons for this could be dirty filters or clogged coils.

The humidity sensor has been displaced from the default position.

Solutions

An external humidity monitor, for example, a hygrometer, is a simple but not the most convenient and reliable method for measuring humidity.

The explanation method is straightforward. First, select the required relative humidity in the control panel of your dehumidifier. Humidistat will turn off the humidifier at this humidity. Now compare this value with a humidity monitor that serves as a standard for humidity measurement in this comparison.

The relative humidity difference between the dehumidifier humidistat and the humidity monitor is an error in the humidistat. In actuality, a testing humidistat is far more complicated. This is because so many other factors must be considered before knowing the actual error in your humidistat.

Precision and Accuracy of Humidity Monitor

Firstly, the precision and accuracy of equipment, which you consider standard, has to be considered.

All humidity monitors have some error in their measurement. However, as quality increases, accuracy and precision increase, but so does the price.

Exposure to Identical Environmental Condition

The environment chosen for measurement of humidity, humidistat, and humidity monitor must be the same.

As the name suggests, relative humidity is relative. It changes inversely with temperature. Therefore, for true comparison, both need to be exposed to the same temperature and external conditions.

Relation of Time with Humidity Sensor Accuracy

The accuracy of humidity sensors drifts with time. Therefore, with time, error in any humidity measuring instrument will increase, and accuracy will decrease.

A humidity meter will drift from its specified accuracy of 2-5% per year. So, in three years, the humidity sensor could be off by +-6% to +-15% in relative humidity measurement.

Exposure to Sufficient Air Flowrate

Without consistent airflow, you will not get instantaneous and overall relative humidity values in your room. However, with a humidity sensor inlet and consistent airflow through the dehumidifier, you get precise room humidity.

However, you must expose the humidity meter to the same sufficient flow rate. Otherwise, you will get incorrect measurements, and comparison will be inappropriate.

Note: Relative humidity is different in different regions of the room. So, both humidistat and humidity monitor, set as standard, need to test the air in the same region of the room.

Note: Measure with the humidity monitor at the inlet of your dehumidifier. This will allow a similar air flow rate and position to your dehumidifier’s humidity sensor.

Identifying errors in humidistat is a complex phenomenon. That is why, if your humidistat has not completely failed, get it tested by a manufacturer-certified technician.

7. Faulty Compressor Unit

The most important component required for your dehumidifier operation is the compressor. It is, in fact, the only necessary moving component in the cooling cycle. The compressor is what pressurizes refrigerant, heat is taken out from it, and it is expanded before it goes into cooling coils.

It is not a very common cause of your dehumidifier’s short cycling, but a possible one is a malfunctioning compressor. For example, if your dehumidifier keeps shutting off after regular small intervals, it could be due to compressor overheating.

If a build-up in your dehumidifier compressor restricts the refrigerant flow, it will overheat and shut down. The compressor will restart its operation after it cools down sufficiently. However, it will overheat again in no time and turn off.

Due to this, your dehumidifier will operate in short cycles and keep turning off.

Solutions

Unfortunately, in almost all cases, it cannot be repaired when it comes to compressor malfunctioning. You will have to replace it entirely. In either case, call a certified AC technician to resolve this problem.

Note: The compressor is one of the most expensive components of your dehumidifier. Therefore, before replacement, it is a good idea to compare the price of a new compressor with your dehumidifier.

In case your dehumidifier compressor is unrepairable, replace it. It will save you a lot of trouble and possibly money.

8. Obstructions In Airflow

your dehumidifier needs consistent and sufficient airflow to operate properly. When it is lower than required, you will face two problems with it.

  • Frosting in the cooling coils

The reason is enough heat is not transferred from the air to the coils. This causes their temperature to go very low.

  • Overheating of the compressor

 As a result, it must perform higher work to maintain essential airflow.

These problems can cause your dehumidifier to turn Off before completing the required operation.

Anything that causes blockage or obstructs the air path through the dehumidifier may cause frosting and overheating of the compressor.

Solutions

Keep enough space in the surroundings of your dehumidifier to cause active airflow.

Air from your living space to the dehumidifier and vice versa must not be prohibited.

Plants, furniture, decoration pieces, or any hindering material should be at a sufficient distance from your unit.

9. Problems with Float Switch and Bucket Placement

A dehumidifier collects water from the air in your home and stores it in the drain bucket. When the bucket is full, it must be emptied and reattached.

When your bucket fills up, internally fitted float switch signals to the dehumidifier control board to interrupt the operation. If this doesn’t happen, the quantity of water collected will get higher than the capacity of the drain bucket and spill on the floor.

If your float switch is faulty, it will trip and signal the dehumidifier compressor and fan/blower to turn off while the bucket is not full.

Diagnosing this problem is usually easy. If your dehumidifier doesn’t turn ON or turns OFF after running for a short while, look for the bucket full indicator light.

If it indicates that the bucket is full by blinking or is constantly ON, you know that the equipment that detects water level is defective. It restricts the unit from continuously performing dehumidification to complete the process.

Dehumidifier Bucket Out

Another problem could be improper bucket placement. When you place the drain bucket back in the dehumidifier after emptying or cleaning, a push switch is pressed, and your dehumidifier starts working.

The goal of the push switch is to ensure proper bucket placement. Without it, if the bucket is not properly fitted, your dehumidifier will keep running and cause the water to spill on the floor. This is also bad in terms of safety.

If the drain bucket is not properly fitted, a loose connection could keep your dehumidifier from turning ON or working continuously. It is also possible that the push switch or water container fixture is damaged.

If disturbing the bucket or applying pressure on it slightly causes your dehumidifier to start or stop working, then there is a good chance that the push switch might be at fault.

Solutions

If the bucket full indicator light is ON, this is what is prohibiting the operation of your dehumidifier. Take the following measures to resolve this:

Take off the bucket. If it is full, empty it and reattach it, your dehumidifier will start running.

If it is empty and your dehumidifier indicates a full container, there is a problem with the float valve. Either it needs adjustment, repairing, or replacement.

The second situation is when you diagnose that problem by placing a bucket container.

To resolve this, look if something is obstructing the proper fixing of the container. If it fixes properly and entirely, try to apply pressure on the push switch, by hand, without the bucket. If this turns the dehumidifier ON, then that switch needs replacement.

Note: If the push switch is faulty, you will not necessarily know that by using pressure in different directions. If it is electrically failed, you will need to test continuity when it is turned ON.

10. Incorrect Settings in Dehumidifier Control Panel

Your dehumidifier doesn’t keep shutting Off because it is defective. There are various options and modes you can select in dehumidifier controls. However, your dehumidifier may perform an incomplete operation due to your selected settings in its control panel.

We have a better sense of temperature than humidity. The generally ideal range of relative humidity is from 30-50 percent. So it should always be lower than 60 percent.

Suppose you do not know the relative humidity you want to achieve. In that case, you may have chosen a value close enough to the present humidity conditions, or even above the already present humidity. This causes your dehumidifier to shut down after little operation.

Humidity Monitor

For you, dehumidification is not complete, but the unit is performing its job as it should. Another reason your dehumidifier runs for a short while is the timer’s automatic turn-off.

When you are running your dehumidifier on timer mode, it does not matter what humidity you have selected in the humidistat. The timer will turn Off the dehumidifier when the selected time duration is complete, even if the dehumidification process is not complete.

Solutions

Give a check to settings in the dehumidifier control panel. For example, ensure the timer or any other restricting modes are disabled.

Knowing the exact value of relative humidity by a hygrometer is not necessary. Just have an idea of the relative humidity in your home and desired range. Select this required value to get comfortable atmosphere humidity with less or more but complete operation

Don’t worry if you are overwhelmed by a lot of controls and worried about changes in the settings. You can always reset the dehumidifier to primary default settings.

11. Malfunctioning Electronic Components

Most dehumidifiers are based on a vapor compression cycle. In this cooling cycle, basic fundamental operations include compression, condensation, expansion, and evaporation.

However, for desired functionality according to our requirements, several electronic components assist components associated with these fundamental processes.

If your dehumidifier keeps turning On and Off, runs in short cycles, or cannot start, one or more of these electronic components may be defective or damaged.

There are several other electronic components too. To have an idea, look to the purposes and functionalities of these components:

For example, if your dehumidifier runs for short durations with an incomplete operation, it is usually due to a faulty capacitor. This is because a capacitor requires continuous power to the compressor.

In most cases, if the capacitor is damaged, you will see it bulged on top. It is highly uncertain that despite the bulged body of the capacitor, it is working fine.

Solutions

Look at external and internal electrical wiring and make sure everything looks fine. There should not be any burnt or damaged sections. Also, check for any loose connections.

Next, you need to check for faults in various components of your dehumidifier. All electronic components (including the compressor) connect to the control board. Trace current through the circuit. Look for discontinuation in the circuit, especially before and after components.

Remember, different components require a different kinds of testing. For example, for a capacitor, the current should slowly reduce from maximum to minimum when testing on a multi-meter. Also, check resistors for continuity.

Check electric components and wiring only if you have experience and familiarity with this subject. The best option is to call a certified electrician who will diagnose the fault for you. Then, if you have a faulty component, replace it with the exact model with the same specifications.

Oscar

In his spare time, Oscar loves tinkering with electronics. Solar panels, wiring, old TVs and sometimes DIY powerwalls. When he is not busy trying not to electrocute himself, you can find him in the garden tending to his vegetables and chickens.

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